Wednesday, July 11, 2007

Buying a House: Single Family Homes

By far the most common form of housing in North America is the single family detached home - ranging from 600 square foot bungalows to 6000 (or more) square foot sprawling mansions. The most important distinguishing factors that determine a single family dwelling are that it sits on its own piece of land (which is sold part and parcel with the home) and it is not attached to anyone else's residence. With single family homes, your home pretty much is your castle. Subject to neighborhood and subdivision regulations and ordinances, you can do with it as you wish. Want a different exterior color? Usually you can accomplish that (taking into account the fact that the neighbors may not be receptive to a purple house with ecru trim). Need more room and want to add on? Subject to the codes of your jurisdiction, you may be able to expand your living space.

You will probably have a yard of some sort - from "postage stamp" size up through multiple acres, and your ownership will include all of it. In effect, when you buy a single family home your purchase will be of a parcel of land (your lot) on which sits a structure (your house).

Advantages of Single Family Homes

  • To a large degree, "your space" is your own. You can modify or improve it as you wish.
  • Re-sale value is generally the highest on single family detached homes.
  • If you need more room, you can usually add on to the existing house.
  • Generally there are no property management fees as there are in condominiums and many townhouses.

Disadvantages of Single Family Homes

  • All maintenance and repair costs - interior, exterior and everything in between - are yours.
  • Lack of amenities (for example, pools, playgrounds, etc.) that you may find in other types of housing.
  • You are responsible for landscaping and lawn upkeep costs.
  • In most areas, single family homes are more expensive than townhouses or condominiums.

Is a Single Family Home for You? It is if...

  • You like your "space." The idea of apartment living gives you the willies.
  • The prospect of cutting the lawn, trimming the bushes and shoveling snow excite you (or at least don't send you headed for the nearest bridge.)
  • You like the idea of modifying your home - changing the color, the appearance, the size. Having someone tell you that you couldn't do that would bother you.

http://real-estate-agents.com/tips/buying-house/single.shtml

Buying a House: Negotiation

Real Estate is one of the few places (along with the automobile business) in North American life where some form of negotiation is the rule rather than the exception. Just because it is the norm, however, does not mean that most people are proficient at it. Sure, most folks feel they are the best negotiators in the world, but in reality, it is a learned art. To be good at it takes a keen understanding of the process -- and you want that understanding before you begin making offers on homes.

When it comes to Real Estate matters, the 3 most important aspects of an effective negotiation are:

  1. Information
  2. Preparation
  3. Realism

Recognizing that being a good negotiator does not come naturally to most people--it must be worked at--is the first step in becoming one.

1) Information

CMA's--Comparable Market Analyses

Once you have found a home that you are prepared to buy, the first step in your process of negotiation is to determine the fair value for the home. Your Agent can be of great help here, since Real Estate Agents have access to the information that you need: Comparable Market Analyses (CMAs). A CMA will show exactly what properties similar to the one in which you have an interest have sold for. These analyses are based on fact, rather than opinion, and that information will always be of more value to you. Generally, CMAs will list houses in a particular location that are currently on the market, have sales pending on them, have expired from the market, and have sold. Be forewarned: it is primarily the SOLD properties that you need to be concerned with. What houses are on the market for is not always a good indication of what their value is, those that have pending sales will only tell you what the listing price is (not what it is going to sell for) and those that have expired because they haven't sold may indicate that they didn't move because they were overpriced.

The CMA which you obtain will most likely give you some general information about the houses that will be compared: Number of bedrooms and baths, square footage, the listing price and the sold price. It is important that the CMA focuses on houses similar to the one you have selected. If you are interested in a 4 bedroom, 2 1/2 bath 2 story, a CMA that lists only 3 bedroom 1 bath homes is of little or no value. Likewise, a CMA that includes a number of properties from a neighborhood 2 miles away will have limited value. To have a good CMA you must have all of the similar sales in the neighborhood in the last year. Obviously, the fresher the data (the more houses sold in the last few months), the better the CMA.

Note: In all likelihood, if you are dealing with the Selling Agent instead of a Buyer's Agent, you will not have access to a CMA. This is one of the many reasons that it is vitally important to consider Buyer's Representation.

Condition

Once you have the information in hand, it is important to drive by all of the properties that are listed in the SOLD column. Why? Because condition has so much to do with the ultimate selling price of a house. Does the home in which you are interested shine above or fall below the others that have sold. Size, number of rooms, and lot size can only tell you so much. Your eyes will be able to tell you a lot more. Make a realistic comparison between the condition of your chosen house and those that have recently sold. Then adjust your thinking up or down from what you have seen.

Extra Amenities

Does the house you have chosen have more or less amenities than the comparable homes? Although amenities will not affect the value as much as location or condition will, they still can be a factor. Be wary, though. An outdoor hot tub may have been a major motivating factor in your choice of a house, but it will not add a great deal to the value of the property.

Motivation

An effective negotiator will gather as much information as is available on the house and the sellers. Obviously, one of the most important pieces of information you can have is the seller's reason for selling. Is it a case of having to sell or wanting to sell? Or, is it a case of "lets throw it on the market at a goofy price, and if somebody bites, we'll move?" If your Agent represents you in the transaction as a Buyer's Agent, they may or may not be able to secure this information for you (it depends on what the seller and the Seller's Agent want to reveal). If you are working with an Agent that represents the seller in the transaction (or in a Dual Agency position) they cannot disclose this information without the seller's consent. Even if this information cannot be revealed to you, a friendly discussion with one of the neighbors may give you a feel for the situation.

2) Preparation

Just having the right information is not enough. You must prepare yourself in order to use it effectively. The most important factor in your preparation is your emotional frame of mind. Buying a house is emotionally charged enough, without adding more fuel to the fire by letting your emotions override your common sense. It is not unusual to be excited--in fact, it is normal--but you must keep your excitement in check or you will lose the value of all the information you have gathered.

In addition to your emotional frame of mind, your financial frame of mind should be in order. An offer to purchase will carry a lot more weight if there are no dangling financial problems and if you have been pre-qualified for a mortgage.

"You can't be afraid to let it go." You must convince yourself that if the price is not to your liking (or worse, above your budget), you will be able to walk away. It is important for you to set a realistic limit and then stick to it. Overpaying for a house is epidemic among buyers who let their emotions rule their better judgment. It becomes very easy to regret paying too much for a house when you make a mortgage payment every month. Unlike a product that you overpay for once when you buy it, a house reminds you every 30 days that you made a mistake!

Finally, plan your work and work your plan. Organize your information and have it quickly available. When it comes time to make an offer, you don't want your "ammunition" scattered on scraps of paper in the back seat of your car.

3) Realism

Don't throw away all the information gathering and preparation you have done by making a ridiculous offer on a well priced home. Nothing will turn a seller off more than a low ball offer on a house that has been realistically priced. Often, negotiations will stop, rarely to be revived again. If they are re-opened, the sellers generally will show their displeasure at the initial low offer by locking at or near the listing price.

An example: Mr. and Mrs. Buyer have been looking at houses for months. Finally, they find the perfect house, which is an ideal match for their needs and wants. The house is listed at $155,000. Mr. and Mrs. Buyer have a CMA in hand that shows average selling prices in the neighborhood to be in the $148,000 to $153,000 range. Ignoring the information they have, they make an offer of $120,000. Mr. and Mrs. Seller, annoyed at the low offer, counter offer at full selling price, $155,000. The Buyers, still convinced that they can "steal" this house, make a 2nd offer of $125,000. The Sellers, now very frustrated, do not move from their $155,000 price. Suddenly, there is word that another offer is forthcoming, this time from Mr. and Mrs. Smith. In fear of losing the house, Mr. and Mrs. Buyer up their offer to $154,000 (still needing some concession) and the Sellers accept. Consider, though, that a realistic first offer in the $150,000 range (remember, the CMA showed $148,000 to $153,000) may well have been accepted by the Sellers. If this were the case, the Buyer's paid $4000 more than they had to.


http://real-estate-agents.com/tips/buying-house/negotiation.shtml


Buying a House: Sales Contracts

Once the perfect home has been found, it is time for the house buyer to take the step that makes so many of us tremble with fear: the sales contract. To take some of the mystery out of the house sales contract, we will discuss what the contract involves and the components of most housing sales contracts.

First, remember that what you are signing is a legal contract. No matter what anyone says, you are not just making an "offer". Most sales contracts will have some paraphrase of the following: "This is a legally binding contract. If not understood, seek competent advice before signing." To put it simply, if what is written on the contract regarding selling price and provisions is accepted by the seller, you have bought a home. Unlike other negotiable businesses, such as the automobile business, "would you take?" is defined in Real Estate by a legally binding contract backed with a monetary deposit.

Although there will be some variance based on the location of your residence, most Real Estate contracts contain most or all of the following items:

What
A legal description of the property as well as the street address.
How much
The selling price.
Mortgage contingency
Subject to obtaining a mortgage (if applicable) and the specifics of the mortgage - amount, rate and term. Application to be made in X number of days.
Deposit
How much money accompanies the contract and who will hold it.
Closing
When and where.
Inclusions and exclusions
What is and is not included in the sale of the property.
Home inspection
Contingency for and to be done in X number of days.
Warranties
Any that are included with the house and description of the warranty.
Condominium
If the property is a condo, other provisions will apply.
Well and Septic
If applicable, they must be tested (and pass).
Termite and Pest inspection
Who will pay and if there is infestation or damage, who will repair.
Possession Date
When the buyers take possession of the house--before, at or after closing.
Acceptance
How long the sellers have to respond to the offer with either acceptance or a counter-offer.
Arbitration
Any provisions for arbitration of disputes.
Insurance
Whose insurance covers the property up until the closing date.
Property Disclosures
Notices of any property disclosures concerning the house.

The exact wording of the sales contract will vary from locality to locality (and sometimes even within localities), but by being prepared to see at least the items listed above, you will be in a better position when it comes time for the Agent to ask for your signatures!


http://real-estate-agents.com/tips/buying-house/contracts.shtml

Buying a House: Mortgage Prequalification

Why get prequalified and then preapproved for a mortgage before you begin your search for a home? Because there are three people who will benefit from your preapproval: You, your agent, and the seller from whom you eventually buy a home!
You

The most important beneficiary, of course, is you. One of the most common questions new homebuyers ask goes something along the lines of "Please let us know how much house we can afford." We're stumped! Why? There are simply too many variables--credit history, income, debt, special mortgage programs and variations in qualifying guidelines between different mortgage types--to answer that question. The only sure way of getting the question answered is through prequalification. The mortgage prequalification step is a relatively simple one, but it is an important one. It begins the process of formally applying for a mortgage, and it gives everyone involved--especially you--a clear sense of the direction they should be headed.
Your Agent

By knowing what your financial parameters are, your Agent can spend more time looking for houses that "fit" and less time pursuing dead ends. No matter how much you might want a 4000 square foot home for $275,000, if your qualifications say $125,000, your qualifications say $125,000. When it comes to mortgages, "yes, but" doesn't carry much weight!
The Seller

Want to strengthen your bargaining position? Get prequalified. Want your offer to stand out in a case of multiple offers for the same house? Get prequalified. Look at it from the seller's perspective. If you had two offers on the table for your house, one from a fully prequalified buyer and the other from an "I'll get around to that soon" buyer - to which offer would you devote the most attention? Even if the prequalified buyer's offer was $1000 less, would you take the chance on the buyer that perhaps may not be qualified? When it comes to a seller evaluating offers, "a bird in the hand..." definitely applies.

It is important to remember that the amount of mortgage you will qualify for is the maximum. It is the amount that the lender feels you can afford, but it is not necessarily the amount that you want to pay. It sometimes is advantageous to be conservative here. For example, if you qualify for a $100,000 mortgage and you have $15,000 available in cash for downpayment and closing costs, you are qualified to buy homes with a maximum selling price of $115,000. So as to not push yourself to the limit, you may want to look at homes that sell in the $100,000 to $110,000 range. Too many buyers simply rush off to the $115,000 level and some find themselves strapped when it comes time to purchase necessary items (such as draperies, additional furniture and lawn and garden tools, for example) or when they forget to factor in increases in monthly expenses (for example utilities and maintenance and repair costs).


http://real-estate-agents.com/tips/buying-house/mortgage-2.shtml

Buying a House: Mortgage Hints

Don't build yourself a mortgage mountain

It's fine to want the best home you can afford, but be certain that it is comfortable affordability. Although you may find certain mortgage lenders who will stretch your qualification ratios (the ratio of your total mortgage payment to your total income) the traditional ratios - the mortgage payment as 28% of your income and the total of your mortgage payment plus your monthly debt payments as 36% of your income - are good basic guidelines.
Get your budget under control

Spending some time reviewing your budget (or developing one if you don't already have it) and sharpening your money saving skills can bring big rewards later. A coordinated budget allows you to get the most home for your money without strapping yourself while eliminating wasteful spending.

Prepare to pay off small debts

Having three credit card balances, for example, one with a $125 balance, a second with a $165 balance and a third with $275 balance will only cloud the picture. Even though the total is only $565, all 3 will have minimum payments, credit lines, etc. If possible, pay them down to $0 balances.

Begin to gather documentation

It is not necessary that you have all items on hand before you apply, but there are a number of documents you will need eventually and the approval process will go more smoothly if you begin to gather them now. Examples: W-2's and income tax returns from the last few years (especially if you are self-employed), copies of pay stubs, a copy of your credit report (you can get a free copy of your credit report here), records of any child support or alimony (either going out or coming in) and bank statements for all accounts (checking and saving) for the last several months.

Don't forget about closing costs

In addition to your down payment, you will need to reserve funds for closing costs. Depending on the type of loan and your location, these costs can range from 3-5% of the mortgage amount, will be paid in cash at the closing and cannot be borrowed funds.

Compare

There are lots of sources for mortgage funds - be sure to make comparisons. Your local bank or credit union, mortgage brokers and Internet resources are all available. Be certain to compare equal terms, downpayments and loan types.

Consider points when comparing

Your total mortgage cost will be determined by three factors: The interest rate, the term and the amount of points.

Consider a 15 or 20 year term

Many home buyers assume that a shorter term will boost their payments out of reach. Unless you make the comparison, though, you may never know if a 15 or 20 year (if available) term could have been affordable. See a comparison of a sample loan. If you are concerned about committing to the higher payment of a shorter term, try this tactic: Mortgage the home with a 30 year loan but have the lender develop a 15 and a 30 year amortization sheet for you. Then, do your best to pay the mortgage at the shorter term payment. It will do wonders for your equity position!


http://real-estate-agents.com/tips/buying-house/mortgage-3.shtml

Buying a House: House Inspections

Depending on the type of financing you choose, there should be either two or three separate inspections of the home you want to purchase. The first should be your own basic inspection (see the bottom of this page for what to look for), the second should be a professional whole-house inspection by a reputable person. Should you select a government loan (FHA or VA), the third inspection should come at the time of the appraisal, which to some degree amounts to a "mini-inspection." Do not, however, rely on this appraisal as your only inspection of the property!

We cannot emphasize enough the value and necessity of an extensive home inspection. Many home purchasers, either in the desire to save the $200 to $500 that a good inspection costs, or due to simple ignorance, have spent enormous sums of money repairing items that any good home inspector would have pointed out. Any offer to purchase you make should be contingent upon (subject to) a whole house inspection with a satisfactory report. Do not let anyone--not the agent, not your family or friends, and especially not the seller - dissuade you from having the property thoroughly inspected! Not only will you sleep much sounder after you have moved into the house, a professional inspection can give you an escape hatch from a contract on a defective house. If the contract is written contingent on an acceptable inspection, any defects in the home must be either repaired or monetarily compensated for. If you are not satisfied, you have the option to cancel the contract.

Inspections are designed to disclose defects in the property that could materially affect its safety, livability, or resale value. They are not designed to disclose cosmetic deficiencies (for example, an interior wall that needs paint touch up). You will need to determine on your own those type of items that will need attention: don't expect a whole house inspection to reveal them to you.

Don't wait until you have placed an offer on a house before you begin the search for a home inspector. There will be a time limit in the contract designating when the inspection must be completed (typically between 7 and 14 days). If you start trying to find an inspector at that point, and cannot find an acceptable one to schedule it in that time frame, you will only have two choices: go with an inspector that is not your first choice, or run the risk of running past the deadline for the inspection (which could void any chance of having the seller take care of repairs). Neither is an acceptable alternative!


http://real-estate-agents.com/tips/buying-house/inspections.shtml


Buying a House: The Final Walkthrough

At some point (shortly before the date of final closing) it will be necessary for you to make a final inspection of the house that you are purchasing - a final walkthrough. In all probability, you will be accompanied by your Agent, who will help you examine the house. This is to verify that all items which you have contracted to buy are there, and items that you have not contracted to buy have been removed.

For example, you do not want to arrive at your new house after closing to find that the beautiful chandelier in the dining room has somehow been replaced by a cheap overhead fixture, or that the draperies and window treatments that were specifically referenced in the contract have been packed and moved away. Additionally, you do not want to move in to find that numerous items have been left by the sellers because they did not want to move them or take them to the dump.

When you do your walkthrough, pay particular attention to attics, crawl spaces or basements, and garages. If the sellers have not moved yet, you still may get a clear picture that there are certain items (since they may not be boxed or appear to be ready to move) that they have no intention of taking with them. Bring this to the attention of your Agent to avoid the hassles that can surface on moving day.

Take your time when you are doing your inspection. Be as calm and focused as possible. Many a buyer has been so busy dreaming of themselves in the new home that they neglected to take a good look and missed an important item that was contracted to convey upon Closing. Have a copy of your Sales Contract with you so you can review any items that should be included with the house.

Here are a few points to review:

* Check the house from bottom to top: basement to attic.
* Pay articular attention to expensive items and those that are of importance to you.
* Watch for areas where furniture or rugs may have been when you originally looked at the house. Many times defects in carpeting or floors that were covered are now visible.
* If an item is missing, or if there is trash or discarded items left behind, deal with it now. Assume that if it is gone, the sellers intend for it to be gone, or if it is still there, they do not intend to remove it.
* Leave your emotions outside the door. You will have plenty of time to swoon over your new home - now is the time to make sure the house is as you expected it to be.

This is the time to deal with any potential problems. If you see an item that needs to be addressed, let your Agent know so that they can get it handled before closing.


http://real-estate-agents.com/tips/buying-house/walkthrough.shtml